I often receive emails from people asking which area of Tibet they should travel to. This is a difficult question to answer since in my opinion, all regions of the Tibetan Plateau are amazing. In this post, I will list some of my favorite areas in all of the main regions of the Tibetan Plateau: Amdo, Kham and U-Tsang (Central Tibet).

Picture above is of the holy mountain of Amnye Machen ཨ་མྱེས་རྨ་ཆེན་ in Golok Prefecture in  Amdo.

Amdo ཨ༌མདོ་

The Amdo region is home to over 1.6 million Tibetans, or roughly 30% of the Tibetan population, and covers an area slightly smaller than France (these figures include the Gyarong Tibetan areas as well) . Amdo Tibetans are found in 6 Tibetan autonomous prefectures in Qinghai, 1 prefecture in Sichuan, 1 prefecture in Gansu and one small autonomous county in Gansu. If you think of Tibet as rolling grasslands filled with yaks and nomadic herders on horseback, then Amdo is probably the area you are thinking of. The picture above is of the grasslands of Ngawa Prefecture རྔ་བ་ཁུལ་ in northern Sichuan.

A vast portion of Amdo is grasslands lying between 3000m and 3500m above sea level. The majority of the remaining Tibetan nomads live in this region. Despite being the closest region to mainland China, the culture among the Tibetans of Amdo is still strong. It is quite common to come across Amdo Tibetans who either speak very little Chinese or none at all. Many of the most famous Tibetan Buddhist monasteries are found in Amdo including Kumbum, Labrang, Drakar Tredzong and Taktsang Lhamo. Amnye Machen, one of the 4 main holy mountains in Tibet, and Tso Ngonbo མཚོ་སྔོན་པོ།, the largest lake in China, are both found in Amdo.

The best part of traveling in Amdo is that it is completely open! Unlike Lhasa and other regions in the Tibet Autonomous Region, no travel permits, no tour guide and no private vehicle are needed. You are free to travel independently on your own using public buses.This is great news for budget travelers who want to see Tibet, but can’t afford an expensive tour. Buses from Xining, Chengdu and Lanzhou go to all counties of Amdo. In many ways, the Tibetan culture found in Amdo is far more preserved than the culture found in Lhasa. I have traveled all over the Tibetan world and some of my favorite places are found in Amdo. Here is a list of some of my favorite areas:

Mt. Amnye Machen: The highest and most famous mountain in Amdo rising above 6200m. It is located in Machen (Maxin) county, Golok prefecture in Qinghai province.

Mt. Nyenbo Yurtse: Another holy mountain rising to over 5800m. It is located in Jigdril (Jiuzhi) county, Golok prefecture in Qinghai province.

Gonlung Monastery: Well known among Tibetans, but seldom visited by foreigners, this monastery lies in a wooded valley at 2900m. The monastery is located in Gonlung (Huzhu) county, Haidong prefecture in Qinghai province.

Rebkong: The unofficial “capital” of Amdo. Rebkong is well known across Tibet for its skilled painters. Rebkong (Tongren) is located in Malho prefecture in Qinghai province.

Labrang Monastery: One of the 6 famous Gelukpa monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism. Labrang sits in a beautiful valley at 2900m. It is located in Sangchu (Xiahe) county, Ganlho prefecture in Gansu province.

Gangya Grasslands: These vast grasslands are home to thousands of Tibetan nomads during the summer time. The grasslands are located in Sangchu (Xiahe) county, Ganlho prefecture in Gansu province.

Taktsang Lhamo: This small town is home to 2 large monasteries. This is the best place in Amdo to do organized horse trekking and hiking. Taktsang Lhamo (Langmusi) is located in Luchu (Luqu) county, Ganlho prefecture in Gansu province (though technically it lies on the Gansu-Sichuan border).

Tangkor: Tangkor sits on perhaps the best grasslands that Amdo has. Thousands of Tibetan nomads herd their yaks and sheep here. Tangkor (Tangke) is located in Zoige (Ruo’ergai) county, Ngawa prefecture in Sichuan province.

Kham ཁམས་

The Kham region has around 2.1 million Tibetans scattered across an area twice the size of the state of California. Kham is the most rugged area of the Tibetan Plateau and is often referred to as “Chushi Gangdruk” which means “the land of 4 rivers and 6 ranges”. Kham is characterized by high mountains with deep river gorges. The Mekong, Yellow and Yangtze Rivers all begin in Kham. Kham is rough and rugged with poor roads meaning that travel is often slow. However, even with the ruggedness and remoteness of Kham, it is often listed as the best region by people who are frequent travelers to Tibet.

The Kham region of Tibet lies in western Sichuan, southern Qinghai, northwest Yunnan as well as the eastern portion of the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). With the exception of the areas that fall within the TAR, Kham is also open to independent travelers. No permits or tour guides are required for the Kham regions in Sichuan, Qinghai or Yunnan. You can travel by public transportation throughout this area. The Kham regions that lie within the TAR require multiple travel permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver. Though the Kham regions that are within the TAR are very beautiful and amazing, don’t feel like you are not seeing the real Kham if you only make it to the open areas of Kham outside of the TAR. In fact, many people have good arguments that the Kham culture in places like Garnze and Yushu prefectures in Sichuan and Qinghai is far more intact than the culture within the Kham areas of the TAR.

Here is a list of my favorite places within Kham:

Riwoche: Riwoche is remote and difficult to get to, but the towering Tsuklhakang Temple makes it worth your effort. Riwoche (Leiwuqi) is in Chamdo prefecture in the Tibet Autonomous Region.

Chamdo: The unofficial “capital” of Kham, Chamdo is full of history and has several major monasteries to be explored. Chamdo (Changdu) lies in the Tibet Autonomous Region.

Gar Monastery: This monastery is set in one of the most beautiful settings in Kham. It is located in Nangchen county, Yushu prefecture in Qinghai province.

Dzado: Dzado county lies along the upper reaches of the Mekong River. It is one of the most remote counties in Kham, but has amazing scenery of mountains, grasslands and the river. Dzado (Zaduo) is in Yushu prefecture in Qinghai province.

Dege: Dege is the cultural heart of the Kham region of Tibet. No trip to Kham is complete without going to Dege. Dege is located in Garnze prefecture in Sichuan province.

Litang: Situated at 4000m above sea level, this nomad grassland region is stunning and has some of the best Kham Tibetan culture around. Litang is located in Garnze prefecture in Sichuan province.

Manigango: The town of Manigango is not the attraction, but the lake of Yilhun Lha Tso certainly is. The lake is at the base of a 6000m glaciated mountain. Manigango is located in Dege county, Garnze prefecture in Sichuan province.

Gyelthang: The so called “Shangri La” is a cool town to explore for a few days. Amazing mountains a huge monastery are the main attractions here. Gyelthang (Xianggelila) is located in Dechen prefecture in Yunnan province.

U-Tsang དབུས་གཙང་

U-Tsang, or Central Tibet, is found entirely within the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). More than 2 million Tibetans live in this area, which is slightly larger than the state of Texas. This is the most well known and most traveled region of Tibet. The Tibetan capital city of Lhasa is located here as are the Himalaya Mountains. All foreigners traveling to U-Tsang must have travel permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver. There are no exceptions to this. This is the most regulated and most expensive region of the Tibetan Plateau to travel in. Though it is regulated, it is still an awesome region to travel through. The most famous monasteries and mountains in the world are located within Central Tibet.

The summer season brings tens of thousands of tourists each day to Central Tibet, compared to very few tourists in Amdo and Kham. Recently I wrote a post about traveling to Tibet during the low season. I still recommend people who want to go to Central Tibet to go there during the winter. Tour prices are at their lowest, there are hardly any other travelers and the weather is generally clear, with bright blue skies. Send me an email and I will let you know which travel agencies I recommend for travel within Central Tibet.

Here is a list of my favorite places within U-Tsang:

Lhasa: No trip to Tibet is complete without a trip to the capital. Go get lost in the maze of streets around the Barkhor.

Mt. Shishapangma: This little visited mountain in western Tibet is amazing. Rising to 8012m, you would think a lot of people would visit it, but they don’t. Shishapangma is located in Nyalam (Nielamu) county in Shigatse prefecture.

Drigung Monastery: Drigung is the lead monastery of the Drigung Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism. During festival time, thousands of pilgrims come to the monastery for pilgrimage. Drigung is located in Meldro Gongkar (Mozhu Gongka) county in Lhasa prefecture.

Mt. Everest: Though I have been there many times now, I still get excited when I am there! Everest is located in Tingri county in Shigatse prefecture.

Suge La Pass: This is one of the highest passes in Tibet with an excellent view of the Nyenchen Dangla mountains. The pass rises to 5430m. It is located on the border of Damshung (Dangxiong) and Nyemo (Nimu) counties in Lhasa prefecture.

Yamdrok Lake: If the crystal clear blue water isn’t enough, the 7000m glaciated mountain in the background is. Yamdrok Lake is located in Nagartse (Langkazi) county in Lhoka prefecture.

The Friendship Highway: This classic overland route has it all with high mountains, lakes, rivers, monasteries and culture.

So which region of Tibet is the best? They all are. All of them have amazing scenery and even more amazing people. When people email me and ask what they should do, I tell them to take 4 to 6 weeks and explore all 3 main areas of Tibet. It is easy and relatively inexpensive to take 3 or 4 weeks traveling across the open, unrestricted regions of Amdo and Kham before spending 1 or 2 weeks in the Tibet Autonomous Region. If you don’t have that much time or money, choose to spend a week in either Kham or Amdo before going to Lhasa. Having traveled extensively across the Tibetan Plateau (well over 200,000 kms overland) I have to say that some of the best places are in Kham and Amdo. People unfamiliar with Tibet probably have never heard of these areas, but they are just as much a part of the Tibetan world as Lhasa is. Kham and Amdo cover half of the Tibetan Plateau and have more than 60% of the total Tibetan population. Most people who frequently travel to Tibet will agree that Kham and Amdo are the best kept secrets in Asia.

For more information on Tibet, send me an email atthelandofsnows@gmail.com.

During this TAR permit hiatus until the end of March 2013–and all year around–we are pleased to guide breathtaking experiences to Tibetan areas in Amdo & Kham. Many of these areas in Gansu, Sichuan, Qinghai, and Yunnan are truly “hidden gems” and offer authentic Tibetan experiences, unparalleled natural landscapes, and flexible scheduling.

One of the most common questions I am asked is when is the best time to visit Tibet? Well, that is a bit difficult to answer because there are pro’s and con’s to each season. What I will do is take each season and list the pro’s and con’s about them to help you decide when the best time is for you to visit the Land of Snows.

Summer

The summer season is the warmest time of year across the Tibetan Plateau. While it is still common for snow to fall on the northern Tibetan Plateau during the summer, especially in areas above 4000m, most places where travelers go to are mild and comfortable. Because of the mild temperatures across Tibet during the summer, this is the most popular time of year for travelers to come. Since the start of the train to Tibet in 2006, tourists numbers have increased nearly every year (exception was in 2008 when widespread riots took place across Tibet). Because of this, getting train tickets to Lhasa are difficult to get during the summer season. Also, tour and hotel prices are higher in Lhasa during the summer compared to the low season.

While the weather during the summer months are mild for the most part, the summer does bring rain and clouds. The rain is not nearly as much as what the south side of the Himalaya’s get, but it does rain in Tibet during the summer. It won’t rain everyday, but it will rain a few days each week in most regions. Even though it does rain, it is still possible to trek in Tibet during the summer. Also, the cloud cover is often thick so getting clear views of Everest and the Himalaya’s are not as common as they are during the rest of the year.

If you are interested in seeing nomad Tibetan culture, the summer is the best time of year. The grasslands are an amazing color of green and thousands of Tibetans living in their yak wool tents can be found. In my opinion, if you hate cold weather, then the summer is the season for you to visit Tibet. However, if you don’t mind a bit of cold weather, the skies are much clearer the rest of the year and will reward you with amazing views of the mountains.

Fall

The fall season is a great time of year to visit Tibet. The rainy season normally ends in mid to late September. The skies from then through early December are generally clear and the mountains are usually snow-capped. The temperatures are not as mild as the summer, but are still comfortable for most people. There will be freezing temperatures in most areas of Tibet, but with appropriate clothing, you will be fine. The tourists crowds have usually departed from Lhasa by mid-October making the Tibetan quarter much quieter. Also, nomad Tibetans can still be found living in tents across the grasslands. Overall, the fall is probably my favorite time of year for traveling across Tibet.

Winter

Some people may think I am crazy for saying this, but winter is a great time of year to visit Tibet. Here is why I think this….the weather is clear almost everyday giving amazing views of the mountains, hotels and travel agencies offer discounts during this time, there are almost no tourists around, the weather is probably not as cold as you think it will be and most importantly, Lhasa is filled with Tibetan pilgrims from all corners of Tibet. During Losar (Tibetan New Year), which takes place in the winter, thousands of Tibetan pilgrims pour into Lhasa on pilgrimage. It is an excellent time for photographers to visit Tibet to capture images of Tibetan nomads from the most remote regions of Tibet.

Over the last 7 or 8 years, Lhasa has an average high temperature of 9.5C (49F) during the winter months and an average low of -4C (24F). While I agree that these are not Southeast Asia or Caribbean-like temperatures, they also are not nearly as bad as most people think (most Chinese tourists are convinced that Lhasa is -40C in the winter). With the intense sun, the temperature during the day feels much warmer than what it actually is. The guesthouses in the Everest region and in western Tibet do get cold at night so bringing good quality winter clothing is important. Now the nomadic regions in northern Tibet in the Amdo and Kham regions do get cold….really cold! These areas can be visited in the winter, but if you don’t like the cold, it is best to visit these when the weather is warmer.

Spring

Each March, most of the Tibetan Plateau closes to foreign tourists for 5 or 6 weeks. This is an annual closing that takes place each year. The reason is that March is a sensitive month to Tibetans, as it is the anniversary of the Dalai Lama fleeing to India in 1959 as well as many uprisings and protests in the past (most recently in 2008). Travel permits normally stopped being issued in late February or very early March and the region normally reopens in early April. The Amdo and Kham regions, which do not require travel permits or organized tours, usually also close to foreign travelers during this time.

Besides the annual closing of the Tibetan Plateau, the spring season is a good time to visit Tibet. The weather is generally clear until around mid to late May, the temperatures are crisp, but not frigid and there are not too many tourists around Lhasa.

If you have any questions about when to visit Tibet or any other travel related questions on Tibet, feel free to email me

The Yading Nature Reserve is found in western Sichuan’s Ganzi Tibet Autonomous Prefecture དཀར་མཛེས་བོད་རིགས་རང་སྐྱོང་ཁུལ་ in the traditional Tibetan region of Kham ཁམས་. Ganzi, known in Tibetan as Garnze དཀར་མཛེས་, is divided into 18 counties covering an area of 151,000 square kilometers (58,300 square miles). Yading is located in southern Daocheng county, which is known as Dapba འདབ་པ་ in Tibetan. The Yading Nature Reserve covers an area of 1344 square kilometers (520 square miles) and has an average elevation of well over 4000 meters.

Inside the Yading Nature Reserve are the 3 holy mountains of Chenresig, rising to 6032 meters, Chana Dorje and Jampelyang, which both rise to 5958 meters. These 3 snow-capped peaks sit in a triangle formation with forested valleys, clear rivers, glacier-fed lakes and abundant wildlife between them. The Tibetan name for Yading is “Nyiden” ཉིན་རྟེན་, which means “facing the sun”.  The local Tibetan name for the area around the 3 holy mountains is “Rigsum Gonpo”. In Tibetan, the names of the mountains mean “Wisdom” (Jampelyang), “Power” (Chana Dorje) and “Compassion” (Chenresig). This region was designated as a nature reserve in the late 1990’s.

The first westerner to see the area of Yading was the famous American botanist and explorer Dr. Joseph Rock. Dr. Rock explored the southeastern portion of the Tibetan Plateau (modern day western Sichuan and northwest Yunnan provinces) in detail for over 20 years beginning in the mid-1920’s. In 1928, he arrived in Yading and photographed the entire region. In the July 1931 issue of National Geographic, more than 60 pages are dedicated to the writings and photographs of Dr. Rocks travels in this area. This issue of National Geographic gave the world its first pictures of the incredible beauty of the Yading area.

Many regions of the Himalaya’s are referred to as “Shangri La”, the fictional paradise written about by James Hilton in his famous novel “Lost Horizon”, which was published in 1933. In 2001, the Tibetan county of Zhongdian (Gyelthang in Tibetan) in northwest Yunnan province was officially renamed “Shangri La” in an attempt to market more tourism to the area. Other regions in Nepal, India and Bhutan market themselves as being the “real Shangri La”. Most likely, James Hilton based his fictional place of Shangri La after the pictures that Joseph Rock published in the July 1931 issue of National Geographic. More recently, the small town of Riwa, located 35kms north of the entrance to the Yading Nature Reserve, also officially changed its name to “Shangri La”. Of all the places that call themselves “Shangri La”, the Yading Nature Reserve probably best represents what James Hilton was thinking about when he wrote “Lost Horizon”.

Though the outside world didn’t learn about Yading until 1931, local Tibetans have known about Yading for more than 800 years. Tibetans from the region have long considered the 3 peaks of Chenresig, Jampelyang and Chana Dorje to be the “abode of the gods”. Pilgrimage circuits go around the entire region as well as around each individual mountain. Local Tibetans try and complete a circuit around the highest mountain in the reserve, Chenresig, at least once a year.

Due to its remoteness, the Yading Nature Reserve is still relatively unknown to foreign travelers. It is not listed in any of the major guidebooks for Tibet or China and getting accurate travel information for the area is difficult. Yading is becoming more popular among Chinese tourists, but even during the high season the tourists numbers are relatively low, especially compared to other popular areas on the Tibetan Plateau such as Lhasa, Jiuzhai Gou and Shangri La. There is talk about an airport being built near Yading, which I am sure will drastically change this quiet, tranquil area.

Getting to Yading Nature Reserve

Yading Nature Reserve is not the easiest place to reach. With no airport and no railway, the only way to get there is by public bus or private vehicle. From Chengdu, there is a daily bus during the high season (June through early October) that goes to Yading. The distance is 865 kilometers (540 miles) and takes between 20 and 25 hours to complete. This is a long and difficult bus journey and is not recommended unless you are extremely short on time.

The most popular way to reach Yading is to go from Chengdu to Kangding (Dartsendo in Tibetan) and then work your way to Yading from Kangding. From Chengdu, there are multiple buses per day to Kangding, known in Tibetan as Dartsendo. The bus costs 120 RMB and takes between 8 and 10 hours. Buses from Chengdu leave from the Xin Nan Men bus station or from in front of the Kangding Hotel in the Wu Hou Ci district. From Chengdu to Kangding is 330 kilometers.

It is best to stay 2 nights in Kangding, elevation 2600 meters, before setting out for the higher areas of Yading in order to properly acclimatize to reduce the risks of altitude sickness. From Kangding, there is 1 daly bus to Daocheng, elevation 3700 meters. The bus ticket costs 131 RMB and takes between 13 and 16 hours to drive. The distance between Kangding and Daocheng is 430 kilometers (270 miles).

A popular alternative is to go from Kangding to Litang and then continue on to Daocheng. There is 1 bus per day from Kangding to Litang. The bus costs 88 RMB and takes between 9 and 12 hours to drive. In the past there has been a bus from Litang to Daocheng, but at the time of research (August 2011) this bus service had stopped. It is still easy to get from Litang to Daocheng. The easiest way is to take a shared taxi from in front of the bus station in Litang. These shared taxi’s leave between 6am and 7am and cost between 60 RMB and 80 RMB per person to go to Daocheng. Keep in mind that these shared taxi’s only leave when they are full. Another option to get to Daocheng from Litang is to wait for the bus from Kangding to Daocheng to arrive in Litang. This bus normally arrives in the afternoon between 3pm and 5pm. From Litang to Daocheng normally takes 3 hours. The distance from Litang to Daocheng is 150 kilometers.  If you have any problems in Litang, talk to Medok, the Tibetan owner of the Potala Inn or talk to Tsering (Long Life), the Tibetan owner of the Peace Guesthouse.

From Shangri La in northwest Yunnan province, there is also a daily bus to Daocheng leaving from the main long distance bus station. This bus ticket costs around 108 RMB and takes about 10 hours. The distance from Shangri La to Daocheng is 310 kilometers (193 miles).

From Daocheng (elevation 3700 meters), there currently is no public bus to the Yading Nature Reserve, however there are plans for a public bus to begin in 2012 or 2013. The only way to get there now is by shared taxi. These shared taxi’s leave from in front of  the bus station on the main road in Daocheng. The cost is 50 RMB per person. These shared taxi’s leave when they are full. The drive is 3 hours and covers a distance of 110 kilometers. In Daocheng, the owners of Here Cafe and Guesthouse are very friendly and helpful. They know the Yading area well and can answer any questions regarding the region.  They also have a great guesthouse that serves good food.

Entrance tickets to Yading Nature Reserve are bought at the small town of Riwa, which recently changed its name to Shangri La. Riwa is located 75 kilometers south of Daocheng and 35 kilometers before Yading. The taxi drivers know that people need to purchase their entrance tickets in Riwa so you shouldn’t have to tell the driver. The entrance tickets cost 150 RMB per person. There is no reason to stay in Riwa, but there are several decent hotels and guesthouses to stay at if you need to stay there. Just south of Riwa, there is a checkpoint where your entrance tickets will be checked. This checkpoint marks the official entrance to the nature reserve.

From Riwa, it is another 35 kilometers to the small village of Yading. Yading Village has a few simple guesthouses to stay at as well as a few Chinese and Tibetan restaurants. From Yading Village it is another 4 kilometers (2 1/2 miles) to Long Long Ba, which serves as the entrance to the Yading Nature Reserve. Your driver from Daocheng should drop you off in Long Long Ba, but ask him to make sure. Long Long Ba is a small village with just 1 or 2 accommodation choices.

Getting around inside Yading Nature Reserve (not trekking)

From Long Long Ba to Chong Gu Monasery

The Yading Nature Reserve is full of stunning beauty and is an excellent place to do some trekking. If you don’t have time to trek or have no interest in trekking, Yading is still very much worth going to. The main route that travelers take in Yading is the ancient pilgrimage route around Mt. Chenresig. The village of Long Long Ba, the actual starting point of the trek, lies at an elevation of 3770 meters. If you don’t wish to hike, you can hire a horse at Long Long Ba to take you to Chonggu Monastery, known as Tsongu Gompa in Tibetan. The distance from Long Long Ba to Chonggu Monastery is around 3 kilometers (2 miles) and takes about an hour on horseback. To hire a horse and an animal tender is 30 RMB one way or 40 RMB round trip.

Chong Gu Monastery sits at 4000 meters. This small monastery is nearly 800 years old and sits at the base of Mt. Chenresig’s north face. Mt. Chenresig, known in Chinese as Xian Nai Ri, is the highest mountain in the reserve rising to 6032 meters. The views of Chenresig from Chong Gu Monastery on a clear day are superb. Some older information on the internet states that Chong Gu Monastery has a guesthouse. However, after asking some of the monks at the monastery, they said the guesthouse no longer exists. The nearest accommodation is at the trailhead at Long Long Ba.

From Chong Gu Monastery to the Luorong Grasslands

From Chong Gu Monastery, the next main site is the Luorong Grasslands. About 100 meters past Chong Gu Monastery, there is a wood building on the left side where you can purchase tickets for an electric cart that can take you to Luorong. Tickets cost 50 RMB one way or 80 RMB roundtrip. The route between Chong Gu and Luorong is on a paved road that goes through a forested area following Mt. Chenresig’s east face before arriving at the wide open Luorong Grasslands. The distance between Chong Gu Monastery and Luorong Grasslands is about 6 kilometers (4 miles) and takes about 20 minutes in the electric cart.

The Luorong Grasslands lie at an elevation of 4180 meters and offer an amazing view of all 3 holy mountains. On the right side is Mt. Chenresig’s southeastern face. On the left side is Mt. Chana Dorje’s (known as Xia Nuo Duo Ji in Chinese) northeastern face while Mt. Jampelyang’s (Yang Mai Yong in Chinese) north face  dominates the front view from the grasslands. Luorong is one of the most scenic spots in Yading.

In addition to the paved road that leads to Luorong, there are also some wooden walkways and bridges that are built on the grasslands to the right of the road. Walking  directly on the grasslands is not allowed. Towards the middle of the Luorong Grasslands there are some permanent huts where local Tibetan herders live during the late spring and summer months. Older information on the internet suggests that you can either camp at Luorong or stay in one of the nomads huts, however the leader of the Luorong Grasslands informed me that neither was possible any longer. Camping at Luorong is strictly forbidden and the local Tibetans are not allowed to host guests.

From Luorong Grasslands to Milk Lake and 5 Color Lake

Nearly all Chinese tourists will take the electric cart to Luorong. Very few, if any, will hike in. After Luorong, the pilgrimage path around Mt. Chenresig gets more difficult and rough. The Tibetan nomads who live at Luorong rent horses and an animal tender to take people to Milk Lake, the next main attraction along the pilgrimage route of Mt. Chenresig. The distance from Luorong to Milk Lake, known as Niu Nai Hai in Chinese and O Tso in Tibetan, is about 5 kilometers (3 miles) and takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours on horseback each way. Milk Lake sits at an elevation of 4480 meters.  The cost of renting a horse from Luorong to Milk Lake is around 200 RMB to 300 RMB per person for the roundtrip.

Milk Lake is a stunning glacier fed lake on the south end of Mt. Chenresig. Above Milk Lake is another lake named 5 Color Lake, known as Wu Se Hai in Chinese and Tso Nga Tso in Tibetan. This lake sits at 4530 meters and takes about 20 minutes to reach from Milk Lake. The hired horses usually do not do the climb up to 5 Color Lake so you will probably have to hike this short portion. Sitting right at the base of the south face of Chenresig, 5 Color Lake is the most beautiful lake around the pilgrimage circuit and should be visited.

The local Tibetans told me that camping at Milk Lake and 5 Color Lake is not allowed. The closest place to camp would be below the high pass that is about 215 vertical meters above Milk Lake.

Milk Lake is as far as you can go without having to trek. Past Milk Lake there are no more horses to be rented. Those not trekking would have to turn around and take their horse back to Luorong Grasslands and then take the electric cart back to Chong Gu Monastery before going back to the trailhead at Long Long Ba.

Trekking Around Mt. Chenresig

The most popular pilgrimage circuit (kora) in Yading is around the highest mountain, Chenresig. It is possible to do this trek in one long 12 to 14 hour day but, taking 2 days to complete the kora is a better option as it gives you more time to really enjoy the area.

Trekkers will need to arrive at Yading with tents, sleeping bags, food and water. Kangding is the best place in the region to purchase trekking gear and food. The town of Daocheng has some small grocery stores, but selections are limited. There are rivers along most of the trek so bringing a water purifier or boiling water is an option. Since nearly all of this trek is above 4000 meters, cold weather clothing is required, even in the summer.

The best time to do this trek is from late-April to early June and then from early September to mid-October. The summer months from early June to early September are possible, but rain and clouds severely limit visibility. It is rare to see the summits of the 3 mountains during those months. The winter months from early November through early April bring extreme cold temperatures and heavy snow, so trekking then is not recommended.

A guide is not required for the 2 day trek around Chenresig, though if you want one, a guide can be found at the trailhead at Long Long Ba. They charge around 200 RMB per day. If you plan on doing a longer hike in the region, such as around all 3 mountains or to Lugu Lake, it is highly recommended that you take a guide with you.  This trek is not recommended for those who have had problems with elevation in the past. The highest point along the trek is 4700 meters and there are no medical facilities in the area.

Stage 1: Long Long Ba to Chong Gu Monastery Elevation Gain: +230 meters Distance: 3 to 3 1/2 kilometers (2 miles)                                                                                        Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

Long Long Ba is the start of the trail around Mt. Chenresig. The elevation here is 3770 meters. The entrance is easy to find as there are dozens of Tibetans offering to rent their horses to those who want to ride to Chong Gu Monastery. The path to Chong Gu Monastery is dirt, but is wide and easy to navigate. It goes through a forested area with a river flowing on the right hand side. There are several high stacks of carved prayer stones along the way.

From Long Long Ba to Chong Gu Monastery takes between 45 minutes and 1 hour to hike. The distance is around 3 to 3 1/2 kilometers (2 miles). The elevation gain is around 230 meters.

Stage 2: Chong Gu Monastery to Luorong Grasslands Elevation Gain: +180 meters Distance: 6 kilometers (3.75 miles) Time: 1 1/2 to 2 hours

Chong Gu Monastery lies along the north face of Mt. Chenresig at an elevation of 4000 meters. A clear, glacier-fed river flows through an evergreen forest making this spot one of the most scenic along the trek. The views of Chenresig’s north face from here are spectacular.

The monastery lies off of the main path on the right side. The trail to the monastery is easy to find. The monastery lies less than 5 minutes off of the main path. On the left side, there are more than a dozen toilets to use. There is also a nice sheltered area with lots of benches to rest on. Using a water purifier (or boiling), you can refill your water bottles from the river that flows below the monastery.

The monastery is quite small and has just a handful of monks. When I was there, no entrance fee was charged, though some places on the internet say that a 10 RMB ticket is required. There usedto be a guesthouse next to the monastery, but now there are no accommodations or restaurant. Camping at Chong Gu Monastery is not permitted.

From Chong Gu Monastery to Luorong Monastery the path is a paved road. This is the only section of the trek that goes along a paved road. This is not a public road, but a private road where electric carts take Chinese tourists between the two places. Chinese tourists rarely hike and prefer to take the electric cart, which takes about 20 minutes. The road goes through a beautiful forested region following the eastern face of Mt. Chenresig.

The road gains a total elevation of 180 meters before arriving at Luorong. The distance is about 6 kilometers (3.75 miles) and takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours to complete.

Stage 3: Luorong Grasslands to Milk Lake Elevation Gain: +300 meters Distance: 4 1/2 to 5 kilometers (3 miles) Time: 2 1/2 to 3 hours

The Luorong Grasslands, elevation 4180 meters, offer an amazing view of all 3 mountains. Mt. Chana Dorje, rising to 5958 meters, will be on your left side, the southeast face of Chenresig will be on your right side and Mt. Jampelyang’s north face, also 5958 meters, will be in front of you. Dr. Joseph Rock published a fantastic photo of Mt. Jampelyang in the July 1931 issue of National Geographic. He took the photo from the Luorong Grasslands. The glaciers of Mt. Jampelyang are especially beautiful.

As you get closer to Luorong, a wooden walkway goes from the road to the grasslands off on the right side. Both the road and the wooden walkway lead to the same place. Walking directly on the grasslands is not allowed.

The Luorong Grasslands are quite large and are a brilliant green color during the mid-summer. There are a high bundle of Tibetan prayer flags in the middle of the grasslands. There are wood benches around these prayer flags where you can take a rest. On the far end of the grasslands are 8 to 10 small huts where local Tibetans live during the spring and summer months. These Tibetans rent horses to Chinese tourists who wish to go to Milk Lake. Camping at the Luorong Grasslands is not permitted and the Tibetans are not allowed to host guests.

From Luorong, you will follow the wooden walkways toward the group of huts occupied by local Tibetans. Past these huts, you will go towards the left where the path returns to dirt. You will follow this dirt path along the rest of the grasslands that lie in front of Mt. Jampelyang. Leaving the grasslands, the path gently turns around the southeast part of Mt. Chenresig.

Keep in mind that you are following the route around Mt. Chenresig and not Mt. Jampelyang. Always keep Chenresig on your right hand side. The path goes up a steep pass that is covered in Tibetan prayer flags. As you reach the top of the pass, the north face of Mt. Jampelyang goes out of view. The path is well marked and you will probably see Chinese tourists on horseback. If you ever have any questions, ask any of the friendly Tibetans you see along the way. Local Tibetans say that camping along the lake shore is not allowed and that you need to descend down below the First Col to camp.

After the pass, there is a slight descent and Milk Lake can be seen in the distance. The path remains well marked. The route from Luorong Grasslands to Milk Lake gains about 300 meters in elevation and covers a distance of 4 1/2 to 5 kilometers (3 miles). It takes between 2 1/2 to 3 hours to trek this stage.

Stage 4: Milk Lake to the First Col (Pass) Elevation Gain: +220 to +250 meters Distance: 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile) Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

Milk Lake, elevation 4480 meters, is a stunning glacier-fed lake that sits at between Mt. Chenresig and Mt. Jampelyang. This lake is considered holy to the Tibetan people so swimming in the lake is not allowed. Milk Lake, known as Niu Nai Hai in Chinese and O Tso in Tibetan, is very picturesque. The lake is crystal clear and the reflection of Mt. Jampelyang mirrors off the lakes surface.

A short 20 minute hike above Milk Lake is 5 Color Lake, which sits at 4530 meters in elevation. This lake sits right at the base of the south face of Mt. Chenresig. The trail leading up to 5 Color Lake is well defined and easy to find. There are piles of prayer stones around the lake that are draped in prayer flags. Five Color Lake is the most beautiful of all the lakes around Chenresig.

From Milk Lake, the trail continues north of the lake (right side) and leads up to a col (pass) between 2 mountains. From the shores of Milk Lake, you can clearly see the route that the path follows. From the lake the ascent looks easy, but the top of the col gains about 220 meters.  By this point of the trek, most people are feeling quite tired which makes climbing this portion difficult. The trail is a little rocky in spots, but overall is not bad.

At the top of the pass there are piles of prayer stones and a large amount of prayer flags. The top offers an amazing view of the southwest face of Mt. Chenresig as well as a great view of Mt. Jampelyang. The elevation of the pass is 4700 meters, roughly 220 to 250 meters above Milk Lake. The distance from Milk Lake to the top of the col is 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile) and takes 45 minutes to an hour to climb.

Stage 5: First Col to the First Hut Elevation Loss: -220 meters Distance: 2 1/2 kilometers (1 1/2 miles) Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

From the top of the pass where the prayer flags are, continue going straight for a short distance. Around 150 or 200 meters past the prayer flags, you will reach a fork in the path. Near this fork, there is a prayer wheel on a wooden pole. At the fork in the road, it is IMPORTANT to turn right (north) and keep Chenresig on your right side. If you continue going straight, you will go off of the the correct path and could become lost. From the turn, you will hike towards the north. Another small group of prayer flags will appear after about 400 meters. These prayer flags stand on top of another pass. From this pass you can see the valley below.

The descent from the First Col is quite easy. The trail is rocky in places, but overall is not difficult. After a short while, you will see another alpine lake on your left side. The path continues below Mt. Chenresig on the right side of the lake. After 45 minutes to 1 hour, you will come to an abandoned rock hut, nicknamed the “First Hut”. This First Hut is on a flat grassland area that is perfect for setting up camp for the night. I recommend camping here for the night as after the First Hut the trail begins to ascend again to another high pass.There is a nearby stream where you can refill your water supply.

From the top of the First Col to the First Hut is about 2 kilometers (1 1/4 miles). The elevation of the grassland area where the First Hut is located is 4480 meters.

Stage 6: First Hut to Several Huts Elevation Loss: -150 meters Distance: 2 1/4 kilometers (1 1/2 miles) Time: 40 minutes to 1 hour

From the first stone hut, you will continue descending the well marked path that lies about 30 meters to the right of the hut.  Between the first stone hut and the group of stone huts, the trail gently ascends and descends, but overall drops in elevation around 150 meters. This stage of the trail is quite easy and goes by quickly.

Before reaching the group of stone huts, there is a good-sized river that flows across the train (very easy to cross without getting wet) where you can replenish your water supply.There is little or no water during Stages 7 and 8, so make sure you leave here with plenty of water. As a rule of thumb, it is wise to restock your water supply every time you come across a clean river. I personally use a SteriPEN and find that it works excellent with the rivers on the Tibetan Plateau.  From this river, which is marked in prayer flags and piles of stones, it is just a short hike to the group of stone huts.

The “several huts” I am referring to is a group of 6 or 7 abandoned stone huts that are similar to the single hut mentioned in Stage 5. They are not on a grassland area, but are on a narrow ledge along the side of the mountain. For those hiking to the Kasi Hell Gulley (having a guide for that trek is highly recommended), there is an entrance to that trail from the group of stone huts.

The elevation of the group of stone huts is approximately 4340 meters. It takes between 40 minutes and 1 hour to reach the huts from the single hut mentioned in Stage 5.

Stage 7: Several Huts to Second Col (Pass) Elevation Gain: +320 to +350 meters Distance: 3 kilometers (2 miles) Time: 2 to 2 1/2 hours

From the group of several huts, the climb up to the Second Col (Pass) is quite difficult and demanding. It is the most difficult stage of the trek in my opinion. The trail remains well defined and easy to see, but almost immediately begins to ascend from the group of huts. About 3/4 of a kilometer past the huts, the trail turns to the right. There is only 1 trail here so you can’t miss this turn. For those unfamiliar with the trail, you might think that this incline is the Second Col (Pass). It isn’t! Once you reach the turn in the trail, you will see that the Second Col is still far in the distance (over 2 kilometers away) and that you are still nearly 250 meters below the col.

The trail through this section is quite rocky, but isn’t difficult to navigate. This portion of the trail goes along Mt. Chenresig’s northwest face. Thousands of Tibetan prayer flags mark the top of the Second Col. The wind is normally quite strong and cold here. The top of the Second Col is around 4665 meters. It takes between 2 and 2 1/2 hours to trek the 3 kilometers (2 miles) from the group of huts to the Second Col.

Stage 8: Second Col to Prayer Flags along Chenresig’s North Face Elevation Loss: -250 meters to -275 meters Distance: 1 3/4 kilometers (1 mile) Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

After crossing the Second Col at 4665 meters, it is all downhill the rest of the way. The trail is clearly visible and follows along Mt. Chenresig’s impressive north face. After hiking for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, you will come across a grassland area that is filled with Tibetan prayer flags. There are some more stone huts here and probably some grazing yaks. This point offers one of the best views of Mt. Chenresig as you are now directly below the north face of the mountain.

The grasslands where these prayer flags are sit at an elevation of 4400 meters. The distance from the Second Col to these prayer flags is about 1 3/4 kilometers (1 mile).

Stage 9: Prayer Flags along Chenresig’s North Face to Pearl Lake Elevation Loss: -250 meters to -275 meters Distance: 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile) Time: 30 minutes to 45 minutes

From the prayer flags, the trail continues along the north face of Mt. Chenresig. The trail then goes through a forest of huge evergreen trees. After 30 to 45 minutes, you will reach Pearl Lake, known as Zhen Zhu Hai in Chinese. From the lakeshore, there is a great view of the north side of Mt. Chenresig. The elevation of Pearl Lake is 4140 meters. The distance from the prayer flags to Pearl Lake is 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile).

Stage 10: Pearl Lake to Long Long Ba Elevation Loss: -370 meters Distance: 3 3/4 kilometers (2 1/3 miles) Time: 1 hour to 1 1/4 hours

The final stage of the trek takes you from Pearl Lake, elevation 4140 meters, to Chong Gu Monastery and then back to the park entrance at Long Long Ba. From Pearl Lake, the path becomes a wooden bridge that goes along Pearl Lake. After the lake, the path becomes wooden steps and wooden logs all the way to Chong Gu Monastery. After the monastery, the path is a wide, dirt road where Chinese tourists will be on horseback. The distance is about 3 3/4 kilometers (2 1/3 miles) and takes between 1 hour and 1 1/4 hours to complete.  The elevation at Long Long Ba is 3770 meters.

The elevations I have listed are from using an altimeter and from using the latest edition of Google Earth. Distances were also determined from using Google Earth. These elevations and distances could be slightly off, but it is unlikely. The entire pilgrimage route around Mt. Chenresig is between 30 and 32 kilometers (18 1/2 to 20 miles). You will not get lost along this trek as long as you remember that you are circling Mt. Chenresig. Always keep Chenresig on your right side.

If you have any questions about this excellent trek, feel free to email me at thelandofsnows@gmail.com

Losang

བློ་བཟང་